As Kenya enters the peak July-August tourism season, buoyed by a record-breaking cruise season at the Coast, attention is also turning to another of the country’s biggest attractions—Mount Kenya, where safety is becoming as important as adventure.
Early this week, the MS Viking Yidun, the first Asian cruise liner docked at the Port of Mombasa, arriving with 717 passengers and 489 crew members, capping a historic cruise season that brought more than 6,000 visitors to Kenya’s coastline and reaffirmed the country’s growing appeal as a global tourism destination.
But while thousands of visitors are enjoying Kenya’s beaches, another group of tourists is heading for a different experience altogether—scaling the snow-capped peaks of Africa’s second-highest mountain.
What a wonder. What a privilege to experience such beauty.
Perhaps no place reminds one of life’s simple pleasures more than the slopes of Mount Kenya, where clouds kiss the earth, rivers are born and birds fill the forests with melodies so soothing that even the busiest mind pauses to listen.
Yet behind the breathtaking scenery lies a mountain that demands respect.
Every year, climbers succumb to altitude sickness, others lose their way in dense fog, while some abandon their summit attempts after sudden changes in weather.
The dry months of July to September, alongside January and February, are regarded as the best time to climb Mount Kenya because of relatively clear skies and stable weather. Even then, the mountain remains unpredictable.
That is why dozens of mountain guides from Kenya, Nigeria, Australia and Sierra Leone recently converged at Annabas Resort along the scenic Chogoria route—not to learn how to climb the mountain, but how to save lives on it.
“And what a classroom nature offered.”
Our journey began at the Kenya Wildlife Service offices at Chogoria Gate.
After signing in, we slowly drove into the vast wilderness.
The first stretch of the road cuts through plantations of eucalyptus trees before gradually opening into the indigenous forest, home to giant cedar and podo trees that have stood for decades.
Then comes the bamboo forest.
The giant stalks sway rhythmically as the wind whistles through them.
Somewhere in the thickets, elephants break branches with terrifying ease. Monkeys leap from tree to tree. Buffaloes occasionally emerge on the roadside.
Zebras graze lazily. Looking at them, one is tempted to ask: how did mankind decide to domesticate a donkey and leave such Zebra beauty in the wild?
The mind wanders. Thoughts come. Thoughts disappear.
The mountain has a strange power to make a visitor philosophical.
My great friend and veteran Nation Media Group editor Gitonga Marete, who knows the Chogoria route like the back of his hand, kept us captivated throughout the journey.
He narrated stories of climbers who conquered the mountain and those who turned back.
The roaring winds, the fresh mountain air and the endless greenery created a feeling difficult to describe. It felt like life itself had slowed down.
Then the road reminded us that paradise is not without pain.
The previous night, rain had pounded the region relentlessly. At one point, our vehicle got stuck in thick mud.
Our experienced driver Duke wrestled the steering wheel and eventually manoeuvred us out.
A makeshift timber bridge crossing a permanent river gave us another scare.
Every creak of the wooden planks felt like a warning. But we crossed safely.
At exactly 12.45 p.m., we arrived at Annabas Resort, tucked deep inside Mt Kenya National Park.
Before human beings welcomed us, monkeys did. Black-and-white colobus monkeys and olive baboons followed our vehicle playfully.
Soon after, Annabas Resort Director Mirigo Micheni emerged to receive us warmly. Her excitement was infectious.
Yet even as she spoke, my eyes remained fixed on the mountain. The scenery was irresistible.
I instinctively reached for my phone to send pictures via WhatsApp but unfortunately, there was no network. Not even a single bar.
“Why can’t the government invest in public Wi-Fi?” I wondered aloud.
Micheni smiled and told me, “The nearest reliable network is around Lake Ellis,” she said.
I gave up and surrendered to nature.
Nearby, an elephant calmly grazed a few metres from Micheni’s residence.
“Don’t be afraid,” I was assured by Micheni, they were truly easy words with hard instructions.
A short distance away, wilderness first aid trainer Amos Chiwo was busy conducting lessons for mountain tour guides.
Chiwo, a paramedic and former chief fire officer, was teaching scene size-up skills, patient assessment, oxygen therapy and how to identify life-threatening altitude illnesses such as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) and High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE).
His message was simple. A guide who cannot save a life is not fully prepared for the mountain.
“Some tourists lose their lives because first aid is delayed or because guides do not know what kind of care to offer,” he said.
The warning is not misplaced.
Mt Kenya has witnessed several tragic incidents over the years.
Earlier this year, veteran mountain guide Samuel Macharia disappeared while leading Japanese tourists through the Sirimon route. His body was later found at Hinde Valley after an extensive search by rescuers.
Tourism experts also caution against hiking alone or without experienced guides because the mountain’s weather changes rapidly, while fog and unfamiliar terrain can easily disorient climbers.
The trainees listened attentively.
For 21-year-old Latif Omondi, the training was more than a lesson. It was redemption. Years ago, she fainted while climbing Mt Longonot. Many would have quit but she didn’t.
She returned to summit Mt Longonot, conquered Ngong Hills and Hell’s Gate and now stood on Mt Kenya chasing an even bigger dream.
“One day I want to climb Mt Everest,” she said confidently.
Dickson Dike, a 33-year-old participant from Nigeria, was equally excited. This was his second visit after climbing Mt Kenya in 2024.
Nicholas Kaloki Bongo smiled as he recounted his journey. In 2011, he first climbed the mountain as a porter. He this time round climbed it as a certified guide. Life, he said, has a way of surprising people.
Coincidentally, as the training progressed, two Belgian tourists returned from a picnic hike. They were accompanied by their guides. One of them, Xavier Sabatier told journalists it was a nice experience being his first time to hike Mt Kenya. He had climbed Mt Kilimanjaro in 2012 and intends to come back in Kenya with his Family to again hike Mt Kenya. He admitted they had not managed to summit Batian, Mt Kenya’s highest peak.
The weather had simply refused.
“It was beautiful and enjoyable. I entered through the Sirimon route and I will come back here with my family,” he said.
Nearby, my colleague journalists worked tirelessly, Jeff Mwangi of KBC TV hunted for interviews. John Javar of TV47 launched his drone into the skies to capture spectacular aerial shots. Sam Wanyoike of NTV adjusted his camera lens repeatedly, determined not to miss a single moment.
Then suddenly, clouds rolled in. Snow and mist concealed the summit. The mountain had decided enough had been seen.
Lunch was announced. The aroma from the kitchen spread quickly. And what a meal it was.
Every person at the table, from journalists to guides, had nothing but praise for the caterers.
Before we could finish eating, two young Australians arrived from hiking the mountain.
One of them was Rob Hofman, 16, son of a representative of MADOKA, Australia, the organisation that sponsored the nineteen first lot tour guides training.
Rob had attempted to summit Batian but heavy rains, slippery rocks and snow stopped him. Though disappointment was nowhere on his face, his was freight train, unstoppable and determination.
His mother, who sought anonymity said her love for Mt Kenya inspired her with other partners to invest in training these guides.
“The training is to broaden leadership and expertise not to cause accidents but to save lives,” she said.
As the day drew to a close, Micheni reflected on what mountain tourism means for Kenya.
She believes properly trained guides can transform not only lives but the economy.
The money tourists spend, she said, should benefit local communities and grow the country’s tourism sector instead of disappearing into the pockets of a few individuals.
But her main worries that remained bothering her were the 22-kilometre road leading to the area which remains untarmacked.
She laments that investors struggle and businesses suffer.
Yet despite these challenges, the mountain remains magnificent. Its forests continue singing. Its winds continue roaring. Its rivers continue flowing.
And for those fortunate enough to stand on its slopes, Mt Kenya offers more than an adventure. It offers perspective. Perhaps that is why people keep coming back. Not merely to conquer the mountain. But to discover themselves.
